Holy Monastery of Kapsas, Makry Gialos – Crete
Holy Monastery of Kapsas, Makry Gialos – Crete
The Holy Monastery of Kapsas, also known as the Monastery of Saint John the Baptist, is one of the most distinctive religious monuments in southeastern Crete. It is situated approximately 9 km east of Makry Gialos, at the western entrance of the Perivolakia Gorge, where the steep rocky landscape meets the Libyan Sea.
Built against the side of a rugged mountain slope, the monastery has a remarkable setting overlooking the southern coastline and the small island of Koufonisi. Its history is closely connected with Saint Joseph Gerontogiannis, a 19th-century monk and ascetic who restored the abandoned monastery and transformed it into an important pilgrimage destination.
The monastery is particularly interesting for its cave-built church, traditional architecture, historic icons and the nearby cave where Saint Joseph lived as an ascetic.
History and Religious Significance
The exact date of the monastery's foundation remains unknown. However, evidence preserved in the church suggests that a small religious community existed here during the Byzantine or early Venetian period. The surviving wall paintings in the aisle dedicated to Saint John the Baptist are believed to date from the 13th or 14th century. Inscriptions and engravings on the church walls, the oldest dating to 1512, provide further evidence of its early history.
The monastery appears to have declined and was eventually abandoned. By the middle of the 19th century, only the small cave church and two ruined monastic cells remained.
Its modern history began in 1844, when Ioannis Vitsentzos, later known as Gerontogiannis, decided to dedicate his life to monasticism. He initially lived as an ascetic in a nearby cave for approximately seventeen years before restoring the old cells and developing the monastery.
His reputation for holiness and the healing miracles attributed to him attracted pilgrims and other monks to the area. As the religious community grew, additional buildings were constructed to accommodate the monks and visitors.
After Gerontogiannis, his grandson Joseph Gerontakis became abbot in 1866 and continued the building programme. An inscription above the entrance to the Katholikon, dated 1882, commemorates both men and their contribution to the monastery.
Saint Joseph Gerontogiannis was officially recognised in the calendar of saints of the Orthodox Church in 2004. His memory is celebrated on 7 August, and his tomb is preserved inside the monastery church.
Architecture and Monastery Complex
The monastery is an impressive example of religious architecture adapted to a challenging natural environment. Its buildings are arranged across four levels along the steep mountainside, with the cave church of Saint John the Baptist forming the centre of the complex.
The different levels traditionally accommodated the practical requirements of monastic life. The complex included monks' cells, a guesthouse, a dining hall, a kitchen, a bakery, storage rooms and a large water cistern designed to collect rainwater.
The arrangement of the buildings reflects the monastery's gradual development during the 19th century, when the restoration work of Gerontogiannis and his successors transformed the small abandoned foundation into a functioning monastic community.
The surrounding cliffs and caves are also an important part of the site's character. Rather than standing apart from the landscape, the monastery is integrated into the natural rock formations, creating a close relationship between its architecture and the rugged terrain.
The Cave Church and Its Religious Treasures
The monastery's Katholikon is particularly unusual because it is built within a natural rock cavity. It is a two-aisled, vaulted church dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and the Holy Trinity.
The original aisle is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, while the second aisle, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was added in 1861. The interior preserves elements from different historical periods, including older wall paintings and important works of religious art.
Among the most notable features is the carved wooden iconostasis, created in 1869 by the craftsman Hatziminas and painted in 1874 by Antonis Alexandridis. The church also has a distinctive floor decorated with sea pebbles arranged in decorative and religious patterns.
The monastery preserves exceptional examples of the Cretan School of icon painting. These include the Virgin Mary Vrefokratousa, depicting the Virgin holding the Christ Child, from the beginning of the 15th century, and an icon of Saint John the Baptist dating to the 16th century.
In the southwestern corner of the church lies the tomb of Saint Joseph Gerontogiannis, together with his sacred relics.
Saint Joseph Gerontogiannis and the Hermit's Cave
The history of Kapsas Monastery is inseparable from the life of Saint Joseph Gerontogiannis. Before becoming a monk, he was known as Ioannis Vitsentzos and lived in the surrounding region. Following personal difficulties and a profound change in his spiritual life, he chose to dedicate himself to prayer and asceticism.
After settling at Kapsas in the 1840s, he spent approximately seventeen years living in a small, isolated cave near the monastery. His reputation for spiritual guidance and healing attracted people from across Crete, many of whom travelled to seek his blessing.
The cave where he lived is located a short distance from the monastery and remains an important place associated with his life. It offers visitors a better understanding of the austere conditions in which he practised his religious devotion.
Following his death in 1874, his religious legacy continued through the monastery and the pilgrims who visited his tomb. His recognition as a saint in 2004 further strengthened the monastery's importance as a pilgrimage destination.
The Monastery During the Second World War
Kapsas Monastery also played a role during the German occupation of Crete. Its remote location made it a place of refuge for resistance fighters and Allied personnel who were involved in activities against the occupying forces.
The monastery provided shelter to people escaping persecution and helped resistance members seeking routes towards Egypt. These activities eventually attracted the attention of the German authorities.
In 1943, the Germans ordered the evacuation of the monastery, forcing the abbot and the monks to leave. Following the end of the war, monastic life gradually resumed, and the monastery was restored under the direction of Abbot Hilarion.
What to See at the Monastery
During a visit to the Holy Monastery of Kapsas, visitors can explore:
The Cave Church of Saint John the Baptist: The historic, rock-built Katholikon, which forms the heart of the monastery.
The Chapel of the Holy Trinity: The second aisle, added in 1861, which gives the church its distinctive two-aisled layout.
The Wooden-Carved Iconostasis: An impressive work created by Hatziminas in 1869 and painted by Antonis Alexandridis in 1874.
The Historic Icons: Important examples of the Cretan School, including the early 15th-century Virgin Mary Vrefokratousa and the 16th-century icon of Saint John the Baptist.
The Tomb of Saint Joseph Gerontogiannis: Located inside the church, in the southwestern corner.
The Hermit's Cave: The nearby cave where Saint Joseph lived as an ascetic for approximately seventeen years.
The Monastery Buildings: The traditional cells and auxiliary spaces arranged across four levels of the steep hillside.
The Panoramic Views: The monastery's position offers impressive views towards the Libyan Sea and the coastline of southeastern Crete.
Visiting the Holy Monastery of Kapsas
The monastery is located approximately 9 km east of Makry Gialos and around 36 km east of Ierapetra, at the entrance to Perivolakia Gorge. It can be reached by car via the coastal road connecting Makry Gialos with Goudouras and the eastern settlements of the region.
Its location makes it an interesting stop for visitors exploring southeastern Crete. A visit can be combined with the nearby Perivolakia Gorge, the coastal settlements around Goudouras and the beaches of the Makry Gialos area.
The monastery celebrates Saint John the Baptist on 29 August, while the memory of Saint Joseph Gerontogiannis is honoured on 7 August.
As an active religious site, visitors should dress modestly and respect the monastic environment. It is advisable to check opening arrangements before travelling, particularly outside the main tourist season.